- The tart dough is uniquely tender and airy thanks to a mix of vegetable shortening, baking powder, and warm milk, which creates a crumbly texture distinct from traditional pastry dough.
- Concentric circles of apple wedges are simply sprinkled with sugar and dotted with butter, allowing the natural sweetness and texture of the fruit to shine through.
- With its make-ahead dough, short ingredient list, and easy assembly, this warm, approachable dessert can be enjoyed any day of the week.
Chef Jacques Pépin remembers well the famous apple tart his mother made every day as a dessert offering in her small Lyons restaurant, Le Pélican. Unlike any other dough, hers achieved its tender, crumbly, airy texture from the combination of vegetable shortening, baking powder, and warm milk mixed with flour. He hopes you enjoy this taste he associates with fond memories from his youth.
What sets Mémé’s tart dough apart from classic French doughs
French tart crusts are typically made with either pâte brisée, pâte sucrée, or pâte sablée; all three doughs are butter-based, and none contain a leavening agent or milk. While pâte brisée is akin to American pie dough but with a finer, more uniform crumb, pâte sucrée and pâte sablée employ eggs and are sweet and cookie-like, the former producing a firm, crisp crust and the latter a tender, sandy, melt-in-your-mouth shortbread.
Mémé’s tart dough is a leaner, rustic version of pâte sablée, swapping the butter and eggs — both considered luxury ingredients at one time — for humble shortening and milk plus baking powder without sacrificing tenderness. The milk is slightly warmed in order to dissolve the baking powder and evenly hydrate the flour.
Can this tart be dressed up?
For a little extra polish, brush the still-hot apples with apricot jam thinned by a bit of water. If you like, serve the tart with dollops of whipped cream or crème fraîche.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
- To preserve the tender quality of the dough, take care not to overwork it when mixing. If time allows, a brief chill in the fridge — half an hour or so — will make the dough easier to handle.
- Pépin likes Golden Delicious apples here, a classic choice for French tarts. Honeycrisp, Jonagold, Jazz, and Envy apples are also great options.
- Gauge the tart’s doneness by the apples, not the crust. The fruit should be tender, bubbling slightly, and caramelized at the edges.
