“You gotta try the po’boy, y’all,” announces our guide Craig Shilow, gesturing toward Poor Boy Lloyd’s, an institution in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, since the 1960s, located just a block off the Mississippi River on historic Lafayette Street. The iconic sandwich is slathered with mayo and stuffed to bursting with crispy fried catfish, shredded lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles.
Baton Rouge is just one of many flavorful stops along a Viking cruise through the American South. On board, the ship’s pale wood paneling, minimalist lines, and soft Scandi tones evoke a serene Nordic sensibility. But every time we dock, the South comes roaring in, boisterous, joyful, and delicious.
The region’s culinary traditions serve as a bridge between cultures. Each stop finds its way into the ship’s dining room, where the menu mirrors the ports of call. At one dinner, I dig into a creamy Creole corn and seafood chowder, followed by a Cajun jambalaya brimming with spicy sausage and golden fried shrimp. Come lunchtime at the top-deck River Café, I sample my first gumbo, thick with spice, and pile my plate with fried catfish that’s native to the Mississippi basin.
The man behind these regional dishes is Executive Chef Frank De Amicis, a twinkly eyed former Marine who served in Vietnam and now commands a battalion of staff with practiced ease.
One day, alongside our guide Michael Miller, we explore the small town of St. Francisville, Louisiana, where we learn more about the area’s culinary roots. “Cajuns are descended from the Acadians who were kicked out of Nova Scotia by the English in the 18th century,” Miller says. “Every Cajun dish starts with a roux made from butter or pig lard, followed by celery, garlic, and onion.”
Here, food is never just about what’s on the plate. In Natchez, Mississippi, I sit down to a spread of fried chicken, breaded okra, black-eyed peas, and candied sweet potatoes, all served with reverence. Every dish tells the story of the creativity, skill, and grit of generations of enslaved people who blended African cooking techniques with Southern staples.
A Viking cruise down the Mississippi isn’t just a journey through riverside towns: It’s a deep dive into the South’s complex, layered identity. And after this sailing, I’m convinced there’s no better way to get to know it than through your stomach.
